I recently finished reading “A River in the Darkness” by Masaji Ishikawa, a memoir that chronicles the author’s life from his childhood in North Korea to his eventual escape to Japan. The book is a powerful testament to the human spirit’s capacity for resilience and adaptation in the face of unimaginable hardship. As I turned the final pages, I felt like I was coming out of a concentration camp myself.
One of the most striking aspects of the book is the way Ishikawa’s experiences, though brutal and unforgiving, catalyze personal growth. His mother’s death, for instance, was a pivotal moment in his life, marking the beginning of his journey toward self-reliance and resourcefulness. Ishikawa’s account of her passing, where he is left to fend for himself at a young age, is both heart-wrenching and inspiring. It highlights the importance of perseverance in the face of adversity, as he learns to navigate the treacherous landscape of North Korea’s political climate.
Another moment that resonated deeply with me was the loss of his sister’s son, who died prematurely due to the harsh conditions in the labor camp where Ishikawa was imprisoned. This event, though devastating, underscores the resilience of the human spirit and the capacity for love and compassion even in the darkest of times. Ishikawa’s account of his sister’s grief and his feelings of helplessness serve as a poignant reminder of the power of human connection and the importance of cherishing the relationships we have with others.
The storyteller talks about how someone looks when they’re extremely hungry, with their lips disappearing and their nose bones showing. They have no cheeks left, just deep eye sockets. Seeing this makes you feel sick and makes you appreciate life a lot more. Even though movies sometimes say that regular life is boring, for many people, having a simple life like that is still a big dream. The character in the story always cries because they want to go back to their home country, Japan. This shows how lucky people are who have a nationality and never think about how important it is.
Throughout the book, Ishikawa’s narrative is marked by a sense of introspection and self-awareness, which allows the reader to gain a deeper understanding of the psychological and emotional toll of his experiences. His story serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of empathy, compassion, and understanding in our interactions with others, and the need to recognize the inherent value and dignity of every human life.
Overall, “A River in the Darkness” is a book that has left a lasting impact on me. It has challenged my perspectives on the human condition and the capacity for resilience and has inspired me to reflect on my own life and the choices I make. I would highly recommend this book to anyone seeking a powerful and thought-provoking read that will leave them with a deeper appreciation for the complexities and challenges of human existence.
Nestled in the heart of Haldwani, amidst the chaotic rhythm of daily life, a simple message from a friend set off a cascade of events that led to an unforgettable journey through the awe-inspiring landscapes of the Himalayas. Little did I know that this spur-of-the-moment trip would not only introduce me to the marvels of nature but also deepen my understanding of the delicate harmony between human existence and the natural world.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, Avinash’s invitation for a short adventure stirred something within me, awakening my adventurous soul. Without hesitation, I rallied a few kindred spirits, including the seasoned trekker Bharat Bhai, and we embarked on what would be a journey to remember.
Bharat Bhai’s wealth of experience guided us off the well-trodden tourist paths toward the hidden treasures of Brahm Tal and Bedini Bugyal. With Avinash unable to join, it was just Bharat Bhai, Bunty, and I, eagerly embracing the uncertainty of our destination, trusting that the journey itself would unfold its magic before us.
Sprituality and religion everywhere in Himalaya
Return journey
Bahart Da, guide and mentor for the trip and life
Brahm tal from the top
Solo pose
Baikal lake, Rat ka adda
Three of us
Our expedition began at the break of dawn from Almora, with a brief pause in Garur to savor the comforts of home before pushing on toward Gwaldam. Over a hearty brunch, we nourished our bodies and spirits for the adventures awaiting us, setting our sights on Lohajunga in the Deval block.
Engaging with the locals, we debated our route, torn between Ban to Bedini Bugyal and the allure of Brahm Tal. A whisper within my soul drew me to the latter, and with Bharat Bhai’s blessing, we set out towards Brahm Tal, undeterred by the unconventional timing.
Guided by a local, we trekked 8 kilometers to Benkal Tal, our haven for the night. Amidst the simplicity of tent life and the camaraderie of fellow travelers, we exchanged tales of past journeys and contemplated the delicate beauty of the Himalayan ecosystem.
The next morning, led by the wisdom of our local guide, we ascended to a vantage point offering sweeping views of the Himalayas. As we climbed higher, nature unveiled her secrets, revealing the intricate tapestry of flora and the stark realities of climate change etched upon the landscape.
From our elevated perch, we beheld the majesty of the Himalayas, a sacred reminder of the interconnectedness of all living beings. Bharat Bhai’s stories intertwined cultural heritage with ecological awareness, bridging the gap between past and present, tradition and modernity.
Amidst our shared exploration, Bunty’s youthful vigor and newfound knowledge illuminated our path, emphasizing the importance of passing down stories and safeguarding the legacy of our natural heritage for future generations.
As we descended from our mountain retreat, I couldn’t shake the thought of the uncertain future awaiting the Himalayas in the face of climate change. The dwindling snowfall served as a poignant reminder of our collective duty to protect and preserve these sacred landscapes for generations to come.
With each step homeward, I carried a trove of memories and lessons learned, a testament to the transformative power of nature and the endless wisdom she imparts to those who dare to listen.
Retiring to the comfort of my room in Almora, I reflected on our two-day adventure, grateful for the bonds forged, the wisdom gained, and the timeless beauty of Mother Nature that continues to inspire and captivate us all.
Note- I utilized AI assistance to enhance the quality of my blog writing.
Once upon a Diwali, at a family gathering, we embarked on a journey of epic proportions – the Odisha visit. The mastermind behind this grand plan was none other than the Big B of our family. The decision was made over discussions and sealed with a ticket-booking frenzy to ensure no one backed out.
Now, this blog isn’t your typical travel itinerary or a meticulous day-to-day account of our adventures. It’s more like a small note in the diary of life, filled with laughter and unforgettable moments. The whole saga began three months ago, and let me tell you, it was a rollercoaster of hilarity and surprises.
First things first, it was the debut flight experience for Viana, Mishika, Samriddhi, and Vihan. The eight of us (Bothers, Bibi, and Bhabhi with kids) decided to step out of our comfort zone and explore the world together, marking our first venture beyond the state borders post-COVID.
The trip was not just a vacation; it was an escapade filled with ‘firsts. Hemu And I, for the first time after the pandemic, had a blast together. And let’s not forget the luxury of experiencing a 5-star hotel – definitely a first for me!
We sailed through the waves, literally, exploring the sea and indulging in boating at Chilka Lake. The zoo visit with Mishika turned out to be an adventure of its own, tackling her relentless barrage of inquisitive questions. Vihan and I bonded like never before; turns out, that managing his boundless energy requires skills Hemu possesses. Hats off, bro!
Gopalpur emerged as the star destination for us. From sandy beaches to serene moments of silence, it had it all. Of course, not everything went according to plan. We missed out on darshans at the Puri Jagannath Temple and Lingraj Temple due to the unexpected Makar Sankranti hustle.
Yet, despite the hiccups, the week was a burst of energy and non-stop fun. I’m sharing a few pics here for my future self to reminisce. After all, in the grand story of life, these unplanned escapades add the most laughter to our chapters. Cheers to the Odisha expedition – a trip that will forever be etched in our memories!
Trekking to Pindari Glacier wasn’t just a spur-of-the-moment decision; it had been a childhood aspiration. Growing up in Bageshwar, we often heard about the majestic Pindari Glacier and dreamt of visiting it. When we returned in 2020, the idea of embarking on this adventure still lingered in our minds, but we couldn’t quite make it happen. This time, I want to express my gratitude to all my companions and friends who collaborated to turn this dream into reality with a four-day trek that started and ended at Bageshwar market. We set out on Sunday, October 22, and by October 25 Wednesday, we had completed the 60-kilometer trek, covering an average of 20 kilometers per day. In this blog, I aim to share the journey’s highlights and experiences with you. Day 1Preparation for the trek–
During this trek, I was accompanied by nine of my friends: Avinash, Gulshan, Swati, Kiran, Kamal, Himmat, Babeeta, Mahendra, and Prakash. Prakash, our trek leader, stood out due to his three-time experience with this particular trek. To ensure smooth planning, we formed a group on WhatsApp, where we all contributed our knowledge and insights. However, it’s doubtful if anyone truly absorbed the suggestions provided by others. Nevertheless, after a week of anticipation, we set out on our journey from Bageshwar on the 22nd. Avinash traveled all the way from Himachal to join us in Bageshwar, while three other friends joined us from Almora. The remaining members of our group gathered in Bageshwar, from where we rented a four-wheeler to kick off our adventure. On our journey, we passed through Kapkot and Bharadi before reaching Karmi village. In Karmi, we had the opportunity to visit a divine temple and partake in a local festival. This celebration brought back memories of the old Kot Bhramari festival, which was a cherished part of our childhood. This experience was even more special for me as it marked my first time observing the Navratri fast.
After our visit to Karmi, we continued our trek to Khati village. During the journey, we made a stop at the Vinayak Hotel, where the temperature was quite cold, giving us a preview of the challenges to come. We enjoyed a hearty meal of toast, coffee, and hot Maggie. Finally, we reached a point just four kilometers before Khati at around 4 PM, only to find that the road was broken. We had a choice to either continue with a vehicle or cover the remaining distance on foot. We opted for the latter, considering it as some homework before the actual trek. It turned out to be a fun experience, and the evening was beautifully serene as we journeyed on. Along the way, we registered ourselves at the forest checkpoint, and at around 5:30 PM, we arrived at our beloved village, Khati, which was our first stop on this journey.
The Group
Happy after crossing the Pindar River
Temple before Zero point where team got much needed Dashara Prasadam.
Pindari temple at morning time.
That path which challenged everyone except the HOBBIT- Swati
Just Chill Chill
In Khati, our host Tara Bhai had made all the necessary arrangements. He ensured that we had two clean rooms, access to hot water, comfortable bedding, and ample space to enjoy our first night together. Although the water was icy cold, I managed to wash my face and visited the local temple to observe my fast before dinner. It was during this time that I realized that carrying a sleeping bag and extra luggage was unnecessary, and we could carry fewer things while traveling. I decided to set aside one bag and keep all the additional clothes, sleeping bags, and other items at Khati. This left us with just one bag carried by Golu and a smaller bag for myself.
Day 2– Rise and Shine!
On the second day, we all unwillingly rolled out of bed around 7 a.m. Some were up early due to sheer excitement, others because they couldn’t ignore Mahendra’s impressive snores, and a few because they didn’t want to miss out on the action while others were still in dreamland. Regardless, it was probably the last day of the trip when about 50% of us willingly washed our faces.
After a hearty breakfast, we kicked off our day’s adventure. Our journey took us across the Pindari Bridge, through breathtaking scenery, challenging terrain, and a straight 14-kilometer trek to Dwali. Along the way, we took plenty of breaks, enjoyed a Maggie party, and spent roughly 5 hours covering this distance. As we approached the final leg of our journey, we had to cross the river once more, but this time, the wind was blowing fiercely. Swati, Golu, and I had to find refuge behind some massive rocks to avoid getting swept away. Thankfully, we all made it to the other side safely. Just as we reached Dwali, the heavens opened up, treating us to a half-hour rain shower. We wisely used this time for a leisurely lunch and some well-deserved rest in the comfort of the Dwali rest house. Around 2:30 p.m., we reluctantly revived our engines once more. By this time, it was as if half our team had been struck by a serious case of the “sleepy sluggies.” Still, we all knew that this journey was a must, and no one was willing to squander the second half of the day. The rain had mercifully stopped, but what lay ahead was the most formidable part of our trek: a seemingly eternal 6-kilometer hike before nightfall.
As we trudged on, we kept each other going with relentless motivation. Prakash was leading the pack, and I, well, I was probably the slowest snail on the trail. The last group didn’t reach Furakiya until 5:30, and by then, darkness had begun to set in, bringing with it an extra chill in the air. The stretch from Dwali to Furkiya was both stunning and treacherous, with broken paths that made for some thrilling moments.
In any case, we finally made it and secured three rooms. Here, electricity was a distant memory, and, needless to say, our phones had given up the ghost since Khati. Exhausted to our very cores, the six of us locked ourselves in our room and made an urgent SOS call to Kundan Bhai for a fire. Kundan, a true gem of a host, had been catering to our every whim with a grin and an abundance of warmth. He swiftly arranged hot water for our drinks, whipped up a steaming, delicious beverage, and served a scrumptious egg curry and dal for dinner.
After dinner, we’d had our fill and were ready to drop from exhaustion. I stole a bit of time for some impromptu stargazing. The night sky was absolutely crystal clear, and the stars were twinkling with unrivaled enthusiasm. By 9:30, we were all tucked in and sawing logs because, let’s face it, there’s not much to do in the pitch-black wilderness. Besides, we had to be up and at ’em by 4 a.m. the next day for our grand adventure to Zero Point.
The slogger
Most photogenic face- Himmat
Hiamalayan Goat- Kiran
The Majestic baba- Avinash
The Hobbit- Swati
The couple- Kamal and Babeeta
Photo lover Massab- Mahendra
Our clueless Guide- Prakash
First time trekker- Gulshan
Day 3 – The Overzealous Leader! The Not-So-Gentle Wake-Up Call! At the ungodly hour of 4 a.m. on a chilly Tuesday morning, I was the first to awaken, my alarm blaring right on schedule. I reluctantly roused Prakash and, in a moment of sheer audacity, decided to be the sacrificial lamb by waking the others. I knew it was a heinous crime to disrupt everyone’s slumber, but someone had to take on the role of the villain, and that day, I gladly accepted it.
I knew it was a futile request, but I still asked for hot water because, honestly, who in their right mind would want to wash their face in -2-degree weather? We all engaged in the absolute minimum activities necessary before gearing up for our trek. Well, I may have exceeded the “bare minimum” a tad, thanks to my troublesome stomach. We managed to get our hands on some hot coffee and hot water, a big shout-out to Kundan bhai, who had miraculously prepared everything before we even stirred.
By 5 a.m., we hit the road, under Prakash’s capable leadership. The first 500 meters were a brutal uphill battle, but we somehow powered through. Then came the moment where we had to cross a river, and lo and behold, we lost our way. Our leader Prakash was utterly clueless, and the rest of us were frantically searching for a path to ford the river.
In the midst of this chaos, our valiant soldier Himmat decided to get creative. Before any of us could fathom what he was up to, he found himself soaked in the river, clutching a packet of Parle-G biscuits. It was crystal clear that we had gone off track, and it took us a good half-hour to rediscover the correct path. But even before we could cross the river, two more soldiers took an unplanned plunge, and these brave souls continued their journey with wet shoes and soggy pants. A true baptism of adventure, you might say!
Unbelievably, I was brimming with enthusiasm on this day, which was quite the departure from my usual self. In a bizarre twist of fate, I found myself leading the team, with Prakash, Avinash, and Kiran in tow. My stomach, however, decided to rebel at the worst possible time, leaving me with no choice but to embrace the concept of open sitting (nicer word for defecation).
As we trudged along, we were treated to a spectacle of snowfall, snow-capped peaks, cascading waterfalls, the elusive Monal bird, enigmatic animal footprints, the golden peak, and a picturesque path. But, just when we thought we’d seen it all, the universe had a surprise in store for us. The path ahead was in utter disarray, and to make matters more interesting, a treacherous chasm yawned before us.
This chasm could only be crossed by inching along a one-foot-wide trail blanketed in snow. One wrong step would result in a plummet of 30 to 40 feet, a literal leap of faith. I was the first to spot this perilous path, but summoning the courage to traverse it was another matter entirely. So, I turned to Prakash, the most experienced member of our group, and it turned out that he too had serious reservations. For a brief moment, I feared that reaching Zero Point might be a lofty goal, especially for me.
Avinash, Himmat, and Kiran were the silent spectators, observing our dilemma as Prakash and I stood at the crossroads of decision. Suddenly, Prakash proposed a plan – let’s venture down to the river level and then find our way back to the track. At that moment, I found myself contemplating which was riskier: traversing the precarious 10-meter distance through the existing path or navigating the daunting 500-meter descent, followed by a steep ascent on an unfamiliar route.
Nonetheless, Prakash and I decided to take the plunge and head downward, instructing the others to hold their positions. When I was halfway down, I seriously contemplated reversing course. The path had transformed into an 80-degree slope, strewn with unforgiving stones. I was reduced to clinging to these rocks for dear life, my numbed hands barely responding to the cold. Observing my struggle, my colleagues wisely decided to abandon the idea of following my lead.
Prakash, a step ahead of me, continued his relentless descent, and I trailed him closely. By the time I reached the riverbank after much toil, all the others had assembled there. Three of our group decided to retrace their steps and return from that point, two intrepid souls opted to explore the upper path, while the rest gingerly crossed the same narrow, treacherous route that we had taken. Miraculously, no one took an unintended detour into the 30-foot-deep chasm.
As we neared the final stretch of our journey, we caught sight of the Pindari temple, a place we had planned to visit on our way back. From there, we had just one kilometer left to reach Zero Point. In total, we had covered a whopping 7 kilometers before 10 a.m., reaching our ultimate destination.
By 9:45 a.m., Prakash, Mahendra, Avinash, Golu, Kiran, Swati, and I had all assembled at our final stop. The weather was pleasant, the glacier glistening before us. I, however, decided to drop my bag, found a nice spot with a good view, and indulged in a quick half-hour nap. While the others were busy snapping pictures and exploring new paths, I was simply catching some much-needed shut-eye.
At 10:30 a.m., after some photography fun, we decided it was time to start our journey back to Furkiya. Clouds had started to make an appearance, and there was a good chance the weather might turn turbulent in the afternoon. Now, we faced two new challenges: firstly, the snow had begun to melt, making the path incredibly slippery and soaking our shoes, and secondly, we had to tackle that same tricky path once more. This time, Swati, Avinash, and Mahendra managed to cross it. However, Prakash, Golu, Kiran, and I were stuck yet again. This time again, I was mentally unprepared to attempt that path.
Instead of retracing our steps, we decided to chart a new course by heading uphill. Kiran and Prakash took the lead. Kiran chose a path with a daunting 70-degree slope and successfully reached the other side. Prakash was the second to conquer this route. Golu and I, however, remained trapped on our side. We had our bags and cameras with us, and we weren’t exactly seasoned mountaineers.
Our first two attempts, following Kiran and Prakash’s paths, ended in failure. On our third try, we opted for a completely new route, but we only made it halfway before facing yet another setback. Finally, Prakash and Kiran guided us from above, suggesting an alternative path, and we managed to reach the other side. This time, my main concern was for Golu!
Golu’s legs were wobbling like a leaf, and he kept stumbling on that steep slope. But hey, when the end result is positive, all’s well that ends well! It was the absolute highlight of our trek when we triumphantly conquered that challenging path. The four of us couldn’t help but burst into laughter, and afterward, we treated ourselves to an enjoyable downhill snow ride. Avinash was patiently waiting for us, and soon, we all regrouped and continued our journey. On our descent, our first pit stop was the temple where we had an interesting encounter with Baba ji. He graciously offered us Halwa and Puri in celebration of the Dashara festival. After receiving his blessings and enjoying our interaction, we continued our journey.
Midway through, the snowfall commenced, and we merrily embraced the mild rain. Our initial plan was to reach Furkiya by 12 p.m., but due to those unexpected challenges, we didn’t arrive until 2 p.m. We wasted no time in savoring a delicious combination of Rajma and rice, and at 2:45 p.m., we commenced our descent. This time, everyone relished the journey, as it was mostly downhill and far less demanding than our previous day’s expedition to Zero Point.
By 5:30 p.m., we had arrived back in Dwali, with me, once again, bringing up the rear. We decided to spend the night here. The accommodations were better managed compared to Furkiya, offering more space and a slightly milder climate. However, I couldn’t help but miss Kundan’s warm hospitality.
We spent an hour outside, taking in the chilly evening, stargazing, enjoying tea and Maggie, and then retreated to our rooms. For the first time during the trek, I had the opportunity to read my Kindle e-reader, and I even had a bed all to myself. I had dinner and, by 9 p.m., I was sound asleep without any concerns about logistics or arrangements. I felt a sense of relief that we had successfully completed half of our journey, and now we just had to cover the 14-kilometer descent. We knew that the following night we would be back in the comfort of our homes.
Day 4- Peace
I awoke at 6:15 a.m. and glanced at my watch. Last night, I had a whopping 8.4 hours of deep, uninterrupted sleep – a truly rejuvenating experience for all of us. We decided to have breakfast in Dwali before embarking on the 14-kilometer descent. In the morning, we organized a brief group photoshoot, capturing a mere 2-4 pictures, but Himmat, being the most photogenic person I’ve ever encountered, amassed a staggering 20-40 photos.
By 7:30 a.m., we bid farewell to our Dwali abode. The morning was splendid, and we relished each other’s company as we commenced our homeward journey. We had a satisfying break at a small restaurant along the way, indulging in delicious Paranthas and Maggie. Later, we interacted with local village women who were busy cutting winter grass for their animals. They pointed us to a shortcut path, significantly shorter and easier than the original trek.
Babita, Kamal, Mahendra, Swati, Himmat, and I ventured onto this more convenient path, and, by 2 p.m., we had reached the homestay. Prakash had made it there by 11:45 a.m., while Golu, Kiran, and Avinash arrived around 12:30 p.m. So, once again, we were the last to complete this leg of the journey. Here, we enjoyed a satisfying lunch and tackled some office work.
The team had arranged for a vehicle that drive us back to Bageshwar, and we reached our destination by 6 p.m. Swati, Prakash, and Kiran couldn’t secure transportation to Almora, so Kiran and Swati joined me for an overnight stay in Garur, while Prakash and Avinash bunked together in a hotel.
And that, my friends, marked the triumphant conclusion of our Pindari trekking adventure. The total expenses for our journey amounted to around 33,000 rupees, which came to a mere 3,300 rupees per person. This covered our vehicle, accommodation, and food expenses in Khati, Dwali, and Furakiya. We all carried home some valuable lessons from this trek.
Last photo of the trip
I, for one, was not in any hurry to open my phone again and felt a longing for the tranquility of the Himalayas. However, we all had to transition back to our normal lives, as someone was eagerly waiting for me, and for her, the sole mode of communication was through the phone.
Yogesh Bhatt 